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"Veintitrés de noviembre de 1944. Catorce horas. Tropas aliadas de la división blindada del general Leclerc liberan Estasburgo de la opresión nazi. Ocho días después, un grupo de soldados aliados descubre el horror practicado por los verdugos de las SS: los cuerpos salvajemente mutilados de 86 judíos en el subsuelo del instituto de anatomía de la universidad de Estrasburgo."
Esta simple crónica, desnuda, impersonal, anónima (una más de las numerosas que ya se han escrito con respecto al exterminio de judíos por parte de Hitler y sus oscuros camaradas), ha despertado en el corresponsal de Enlace Crítico destacado en Europa un interés inusual: viajar en la misma dirección por la que transitaron miles de prisioneros deportados durante el régimen nazi, experiencia de la cual muy pocos pudieron escapar.
Viajamos en coche rumbo a Natzwiller, pueblito perdido en una región oscura y boscosa de Alsacia. Enclavada en el monte de Los Vosgos, en el sur de Francia. El lugar fue la antigua y última parada de los prisioneros destinados al único campo de concentración alemán que existió en el territorio francés.
Pasando el puente que une las dos orillas del caudaloso Rhin, el vehículo se adentra en la provincia de Alsacia. Atrás ya ha quedado Suiza.
En Mulhouse, el lado francés del río, los campos verdes con cultivos se pierden en el horizonte inundado por una densa neblina que deja filtrar, de a poco, los tibios rayos de un sol tardío. Es la mitad de marzo y el frío se está despidiendo. Dos elegantes cigueñas que vienen emigrando en su largo vuelo desde Marruecos, paradas sobre la torre de un campanario, traen desde Africa el anuncio del final del invierno.
Llegando al pueblo de Andlau se respira un aire oxigenado de sol y con olor a uvas secas. Preguntar a la gente del lugar alguna información acerca de lo que sucedió en aquellos años de 1940 no es tarea fácil. Nadie sabe o intenta recordar nada. Todos quieren olvidar, en especial los viejos.
Desde la carretera se observa el pueblo como una pequeña comarca circundada por montañas lejanas y salvajes. El orgullo del pueblo está representado en sus antiguas casitas de colores adornadas con madera, en sus terrazas productoras de vino, y en la cúpula de una vieja abadía de origen romano.
El vehículo japonés en que viajamos comienza a trepar pesadamente las laderas de un monte cubierto de pinos, y el hilo de un arroyo de aguas claras baja de la montaña, formando un limpio caudal que revienta entre las piedras cubiertas de musgo.
Llegando a "Champ du Feu" hay que doblar a la derecha. Son 11 km de carretera en la cima de unos montes que forman una especie de valle. Es la región de los Vosgos.
Rastros de una pesada nevada nocturna se dejan ver al costado del camino, mientras la limpia cinta de asfalto negro serpentea entre árboles misteriosos. Hielo blando y alto sol dominan el paisaje.
En medio de este lugar idílico, en el que todo parece extraído de un cuento, aparece dibujado tras el parabrisas un cartel solitario: "Zona de silencio y memoria. Antiguo Campo de concentración de Struthof-Natzwiller (KZ-Na)". Hemos llegado a destino.
En las curvas estrechas puede uno imaginarse aquel camión que avanzaba balanceándose desde un lugar llamado “Markirch”, donde pobres infelices vestidos en harapos grises eran obligados a picar las piedras de granito rojo de una cantera, al servicio de la infame codicia Nazi.
Al llegar al campo, las puertas están cerradas detrás de los alambres de púas, y las torres de vigilancia de madera, color oscuro, dan al visitante una extraña bienvenida. Una mezcla de naturaleza, pasado y silencio, inunda el lugar.
Anteriormente a la ocupación alemana de Alsacia, en 1940, “Le Struthof” era un sitio donde las familias francesas pasaban sus días de campo, esquiaban, caminaban y disfrutaban del aire y del sol.
Pero en la primavera de mayo de 1940, un ingeniero de apellido Blumberg que servía a las SS (en español significa: Escuadrón de Protección), descubrió una veta de granito rojo en la cima del Monte Louise. La piedra sería utilizada para la construcción de proyectos para el Tercer Reich.
Este campo de concentración de Struthof-Natzweiler fue creado para la explotación de la cantera de piedra cercana, con la mano de obra esclava de los miles de deportados por causas políticas y raciales que por él pasaron, y es el único establecido en el territorio francés, como también el primero de los campos de la muerte en ser liberado por las tropas aliadas en 1944.
La segunda excusa para la creación de este campo, fue el internamiento clandestino de numerosos prisioneros políticos, considerados por los nazis “criminales contra el estado alemán”, en el marco de un decreto llamado “Noche y Niebla” (En alemán: Nacht und Nebel), en el cual se castigaba a todo aquel francés, extranjero o alemán que estaba en contra del régimen de Hitler en el territorio de Francia. Los prisioneros que más han sufrido el internamiento en este campo, por causa del decreto “Nacht und Nebel”, fueron los miembros de la resistencia francesa y los agentes de operaciones especiales aliados desplegados en la Francia ocupada.
Los desgraciados que eran capturados bajo acusación o sospecha de algún delito durante los operativos “Noche y Niebla”, fueron catalogados con las siglas “NN” marcadas en sus raídas chaquetas rayadas, y sometidos a un brutal tratamiento que incluyó la tortura física, el experimento “médico” con seres humanos, la eliminación física por medio de la horca, el fusilamiento sumario, la cámara de gas y la cremación de sus restos en hornos destinados a tal fin.
Según el registro alemán de matriculados de la extensa red de campos de concentración, la mayor parte de las 51. 684 personas detenidas en este campo de Struthof, fueron de origen polaco (13.606 personas), y soviético (7.586 deportados). Hay datos de 7 ciudadanos de origen suizo que colaboraban con la resistencia francesa y también fueron asesinados aquí. Por este lugar pasaron 22.000 presos de 31 nacionalidades. La mayoría ha muerto durante su deportación.
Llegando al campo se puede observar que todo se mantiene intacto, como antes había sido, y solo faltan los guardias con sus perros pastores ladrando a diestra y siniestra, las ametralladoras M-G 42 instaladas en lo alto de las garitas de vigilancia y apuntando hacia los seres humanos, y la corriente eléctrica acechando en el perímetro a todo aquel que intentara escapar.
Los prisioneros llegaban en camiones, luego de un penoso viaje en tren, generalmente engañados con la promesa de que iban rumbo a un campo en mejores condiciones que el de Auschwitz. A su llegada a este campo de Struthof, el nuevo grupo era internado en el bloque número 3 durante 15 días. Allí se los “fumigaba”, con el pretexto de eliminar enfermedades como el tifus, de la que muchos terminaron muriendo finalmente. Se acomodaban en el lugar entre 2000 y 3000 presos por “temporada”, y cada una de esas temporadas significaba el exterminio total de esos contingentes de deportados.
La nefasta y famosa “solución final al problema judío”, ideada por Heinrich Himmler y ejecutada bajo las órdenes de jerarcas nazis como Rudolf Hess, funcionaba con la precisión de un reloj suizo aquí, en la cima de este monte, en estas antiguas instalaciones de lo que fue un campo de exterminio nazi, ubicado en el agreste territorio alsaciano.
Con 18 barracones, este campo comenzó a funcionar el día 21 de mayo de 1941. Los primeros presos internados fueron 300 “criminales” alemanes, acusados de colaborar con la resistencia francesa.
El primer comandante del campo fue un SS de nombre Josef Kramer, apodado “la bestia de Belsen”, debido a sus métodos especialmente brutales y sádicos, quien organizó el exterminio de numerosos judíos por órdenes superiores, pero en especial la tortura de personas a quien él mismo consideraba “microbios peligrosos”. Esos desdichados grupos de seres humanos, catalogados por este individuo como “microbios”, eran todos aquellos que no poseían una raíz racial de origen “ario puro”, o quienes tenían un estilo de vida simplemente diferente a los suyos, y que por desgracia habían caído en manos de sus verdugos SS (del alemán Schutzstaffel).
Kramer alternaba sus días entre la plácida vida en su casa alpina con piscina de natación ubicada a pocos metros del campo (y que todavía se observa, aunque ahora herméticamente cerrada), y el asesinato sistemático y selectivo de polacos, gitanos, homosexuales, comunistas, testigos de Jehová y enfermos mentales, especialmente seleccionados por órdenes suyas entre cada contingente de nuevos prisioneros que llegaban al campo.
A comienzos de 1944 había unos 2000 prisioneros en Struthof, pero en septiembre, cuando el campo fue evacuado, unos 7000 presos habitaban en él, bajo condiciones sanitarias infrahumanas. Muchos de ellos procedían de otros campos que ya habían sido evacuados.
Había en aquel tiempo un personaje oscuro de nombre August Hirt, y que tenía por gusto coleccionar esqueletos de hombres y mujeres judíos, con el supuesto interés de analizarlos “científicamente” con fines antropológicos. De estatura media, más bien bajito, boca torcida y mirada incoherente, este íntimo amigo del partido nazi había sido herido gravemente sirviendo como voluntario en la Primera Guerra Mundial. Condecorado como héroe, se transformó luego en médico especializado en anatomía y destinado a la universidad que el Tercer Reich instaló en Estrasburgo.
Hirt soñaba con el delirio de estudiar los genes de razas “inferiores”. Negros, gitanos, deficientes mentales y armenios, fueron los primeros cobayos de sus “investigaciones”. Pero sobre todo, judíos.
Para ello, escribió una carta destinada a Heinrich Himmler con la petición de que se le envíen 150 presos judíos “en buen estado”, para llevar a cabo un proyecto que deje un rastro de la raza judía, una vez finalizada la operación denominada “solución final”.
Himmler da su consentimiento, y en julio de 1943 parte de Auschwitz un convoy de 87 presos judíos con destino a este campo nazi de Struthof-Natzweiller.
En su testimonio realizado ante la corte de justicia militar de Hamelín, antes de ser condenado a morir en la horca, el comandante del Campo Josef Kramer declaró lo siguiente:
“En Agosto de 1943 recibí la orden de aceptar inmediatamente aproximadamente 80 prisioneros desde Auschwitz. La carta llevaba la instrucción de contactar inmediatamente con el Dr. Hirt de la facultad de Medicina de Estrasburgo. Viajé al Instituto de Anatomía en Estrasburgo donde Hirt me informó acerca de la llegada de prisioneros procedentes de Auschwitz con destino a Natzweiler-Struthof. Me dijo también que había que matar a estas personas en la cámara de gas del campo y que sus cuerpos deberían ser remitidos al Instituto de Anatomía y ser puestos a su disposición. El Dr. Hirt me entregó una especie de sales y me dijo la dosis que debería utilizar”…
Dentro del campo todo parece moverse en cámara lenta. El tiempo se detiene. Se observa primero la barraca número 13 (ahora convertida en museo), donde los presos políticos eran hacinados como animales y forzados a trabajar hasta morir: de hambre, de tifus o disparo de fusil.
Caminando por la entrada principal llama la atención lo cerrado que es el tejido del alambre de púas. Una de las personas responsables de guiar a los visitantes por las instalaciones, nos comenta que el alambre alemán era más cerrado y duro que el fabricado en Francia en aquellos años, por eso los comandantes hacían traer especialmente las alambradas desde fábricas de acero ubicadas en el sur de Alemania, en la Selva Negra.
Impacta de manera especial un barracón aislado, apartado del resto de los demás alojamientos, cercano al perímetro electrificado, donde eran recluidos los prisioneros que cometían alguna “falta”. Esa barraca era denominada “la cárcel”, y en ella se perpetraban torturas, bajo acusaciones tan absurdas, como las de no saludar debidamente el paso de algún “kapo”, personajes que eran los celadores del campo.
Cae la tarde y el sol se filtra entre las ramas de los pinos que abundan en el lugar. Una bandera francesa flamea solitaria en la brisa, y domina la explanada donde relucen numerosas tumbas con cruces de granito blanco y placas anónimas, que recuerdan vagamente el cementerio militar de Colleville-Sur-Mer, en Normandía, donde se honra a los soldados muertos durante el desembarco del Día “D”.
Pero estas no son tumbas de soldados. No hay honor alguno en este campo de mármol y piedras sueltas. Son fosas donde descansan los restos de hombres y mujeres “Inconnu” (de la palabra francesa “desconocido”), y que se han llevado a su última morada el secreto de sus últimos momentos, sus identidades nunca más reveladas, y todo el sufrimiento que la humanidad jamás podrá olvidar.
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